Thrift Tip - Know Your Size
Seems pretty simple, right? But one of the things I’ve learned most since I started this Tumblr blog is how important it is to know your correct measurements. As I look through my closet, items I once treasured I now have no use for as I realize they are too short, or the shoulders are just too tight, or the entire cut is off by one size.
Get a tailor to measure you, or check out these handy PDFs (h/t to The Silentist via PutThisOn) and commit them to memory. As you scour eBay, don’t be seduced by an item if it doesn’t match up, no matter how beautiful the fabric or exquisite the corozo nut buttons appear to be. I made that mistake with the above Southwick jacket and after investing a hefty sum into getting it tailored, it just doesn’t fit quite right.
Not all measurements are created equally. In order of importance:
1) Shoulder: The costliest for a tailor to fix, and sometimes impossible to do so. Know your shoulder measurement to a T.
2) Length: Short jackets will make you look bottom heavy, long jackets will do the opposite. Ignore the trends and figure out what your “timeless” length measurement is. Some say the jacket should reach your fingers as you “cup” your hands, some say it should be halfway between your neck and the ground, and others just want it to cover your butt. Find out what works for you and stick with it.
3) Chest: A chest measurement a few inches one way or another should be able to be altered by a tailor, but know that a jacket with a bigger (or smaller) chest is going to be cut bigger (or smaller) all around, so be wary of overreaching here.
4) Sleeves: Frankly, just try to get close here. Most of us don’t spend our days in a robo-pose trying to show 1/4 inch of shirt cuff, so figure out your perfect sleeve length and stay within .5-1” either way. Tailors should be able to alter sleeves for about $20, unless the cuffs are functional or “surgeon’s” cuffs, which then becomes much more expensive as the jacket will need to be altered from the shoulder.
If your clothes don’t fit, then you won’t feel comfortable, and in that case what’s the point in wearing them anyway?
On point, thanks for sharing gents.